![]() ![]() Or, due to high humidity, it may have formed between the time you polished & clear-coated. I call those imperfections "character" and charge extra. In this case, I'm relatively confident that the minute amount of rust was actually already there, just very hard to see. ShopLine is a great product to use over an opaque base-coat, but is slightly amber in color compared to DELTRON, which is very, very clear. If rust were to form under a solvent based clear-coat like ShopLine, which is a PPG product, it would actually causeĭelamination or blistering in that area & would be the result of latent moisture. Under close inspection, nearly always starts out green, then as it oxidizes, turns to the familiar red (iron oxide). The only way that rust can form under a properly applied clear-coat is in the presence of water & oxygen. Or dyed metal, that you just can't see until the clear is on. In fact, the prismatic effect of grinding & polishing takes on different looks from different angles of lighting.Ĭlear-coating accentuates any nuance in the striations of grinding/polishing, as well as subtleties in the patina Grinding/polishing near the edgeĪlways seems to miss a little rust & it's hard to see unless you're working under a very bright light. I suspect that the little bit of rust showing was there prior to clear-coating. My take is entirely subjective, without actually seeing the piece in person, so please don't take any offense. The rust area shown there is about 1/8 in. I shoot from angles to get inside the cut outs.Īny suggestions? Here are some pictures of what I'm seeing just 12 hours after coating. I usually put at least 2 maybe 3 coats of clear on everything. Then hang in the paint room until I have a batch (later the same evening) to clear coat. I cut, acid bath in muriatic acid, wash off with water, grind to a polish with 120 grit flap disc. It is hard enough to make money in this without killing my self reworking and refinishing all my polished steel. This has become a quality control issue for me and need any help I can from you guys. It seems to continue to get worse even after the part is sealed. Now I have moved to a shopline clear coat that seems to be pretty good, but I still have been getting rusted metal under the clear. ![]() I blamed that on the nozzle change and maybe thin coats. I also saw that the metal would later rust even after several coats were applied. (I've only been doing this that long) I first started with a lacquer rattle can and that finished pretty well, but they changed the nozzle and it was an arm and a leg. I have been through the evolution here in the last 6 months of clear coats. ![]()
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